From a parcel located at the northern extreme of Les Rugiens Haut where there's very little soil, the 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens unfurls in the glass with a complex bouquet of sweet red-black fruits, orange rind, dark chocolate and potpourri. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with rich structuring tannins, lovely completeness and succulent balancing acids, concluding with a long finish. 92-94 points. William Kelley.