The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400m in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that is utterly captivating. It’s a remarkable effort for the first year in which Roberto and his team were in charge. The ambition is pretty clear. Molsino will soon be the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte.98+ points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous.