A delicious result, with a ripe, nuanced blackberry and bramble fruit character. The texture of the wine has an exuberant, youthful freshness and vivacity. Not for long ageing, but very enjoyable on the fruit alone. Lafon owns more than a hectare in the east-facing Monthélie premier cru of Les Duresses. It is not among his most high-profile bottlings, but perhaps he feels free to experiment a bit because of this. Unlike most reds, a good proportion of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and the wine sees no sulphur before bottling. Drink 2023-2040 93 Points. Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.