Made from fifty-year old vines, the compelling Giuseppe Cortese 2020 Rabajà is one of the best wines of the vintage. It opens with perfumed berry, fragrant purple flower and vineyard dust. It’s absolutely delicious, delivering Jolly Rancher cherry, strawberry compote and baking spice flavors before an almost salty mineral finish. It’s structured and full-bodied, with tightly knit tannins while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2026–2039.97 points. Kerrin O’Keefe.