Deep, bright colour and a marvellous array of spice aromas, the full spice cupboard, infused with some meaty/charcuterie nuances and the overall impression is of stacks of umami. The wine is medium-full bodied and it has intensity and drive without excessive weight, the tannins chiming in with drying grip and sapidity as it drives long on the finish and resonates through its authoritative aftertaste. Superb. 98 points. Huon Hooke.