The fruit is pressed gently over four hours and ferments with natural yeasts (still a rarity in Chablis). It is raised mainly in tank, and the maturation is unhurried. The wine then spends 20 months on lees, considerably longer than most Chablis of this level. These traditional methods—along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields and ripeness—help explain the mouthcoating texture, salty depths and overall quality. Tasted next to the Petit Chablis, there are more lifted aromatics of ripe nectarine and citrus blossom, leading to a mouthwatering palate of tugging mid-palate texture, pristine orchard and kernel fruit, and a kick of saltiness. There’s even a touch of ripe grapefruit and clementine. The rocky close lingers with a mineral vibration you don’t want to end. Rob Walters.