The vines here yield only 15 to 20 hl/ha each year—one of the keys to the intensity on offer. The 2017 also took in some Chardonnay from Fonnet (from 2020, upcoming vintages will also take in Chardonnay from the Vouette vineyard, which was previously planted to Pinot Noir but was replanted to Chardonnay a number of years ago). Fermentation for this wine was wild and took place in used 500- and 600-litre barrels, with a small a portion of fruit fermented and raised in Georgian amphora. As with the Fidèle, this wine spent roughly 15 to 18 months in bottle on lees, before being disgorged by hand with zero dosage. Gautherot was delighted with the 2017 vintage, noting the Chardonnay from this cool terroir was just perfect: ripe, fresh and pulpy. That assessment plays out in a striking wine of superb intensity and drive, with plenty of flesh but also vibrant freshness and a long salty, powdery finish. Blanc d’Argile has been described as Grand Cru Chablis with bubbles—and the 2017 delivers on that promise big time.Rob Walters.
